You know, I always heard that kids grow up fast and believed it, but until I had my own kids I didn’t realize how true it was. I mean, next month my oldest will be nine. Nine! In one way it feels like just yesterday that we brought him home from the hospital, but in another way it feels like an eternity ago.
Times are rough for us right now. We are definitely in the little kid stage (and oh, how hard age 3 has been for all of ours!!) and we are exhausted. These four really wear us out, but we wouldn’t change it for the world. The old saying “the days are long but the years are short” is really what we are living. Some days just seem to go on forever and we are completely drained, but the years are flying by faster and faster and I just want it to slow down!!
While I do like it when the kids are old enough to play on their own and be independent, there is just something about having a baby in the house. This little guy is our last baby and I’ve really been trying to cherish each moment. Little baby sounds from the backseat, cuddles at night (even when he is still NOT sleeping through the night!), and being the center of his world. And, oh, that sweet face!! He has the bluest eyes ever, too. <3
I designed this sweater way before this little guy was born and I have waited until he was old enough to wear it to share it with you. I used one of my favorite yarns from Malabrigo for this and I love the subtle color changes. Who knew I’d have a blue eyed baby to wear it??
The cables on the front and the deeply ribbed hood and placket really stand out and I found these adorable puppy buttons at my local Joann. This sweater is still a bit big on my little guy (he is in an 18 months and this is a size 2) but I couldn’t wait any longer for him to start wearing it and share it with you – plus it gives him some room to grow into. 🙂
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Comfy Cabled Hoodie
What You’ll Need
Yarn: Malabrigo Twist (100% Merino Wool; 150 yards [137 meters]/100 grams): TW150 Azul Profundo, 5 (5, 6, 7, 8) balls
Hooks: US size J/10 (6.0 mm); US size H/8 (5.0 mm)
Notions: Tapestry needle; two 5/8” buttons
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: Finished Chest Size 24 (26, 28, 30, 32)” to fit size 2 (4, 6, 8, 10)
2-3” positive ease recommended.
Shown in size 2
Gauge: 12 sts and 12 rows = 4” [10 cm] in hdc with larger hook
SPECIAL STITCHES
Cable (worked over 6 sts)
Row 1: Fpdc in next 6 sts.
Row 2: Bpdc in next 6 sts.
Row 3: Sk first 3 dc, fpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in first 3 skipped sts.
Row 4: Bpdc in next 6 sts.
Row 5: Fpdc in next 6 sts.
Row 6: Bpdc in next 6 sts.
Rep Rows 1-6 for patt.
PATTERN NOTES
Ch-2 at beginning of row counts as st unless otherwise noted.
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PATTERN
Back Ribbing
With smaller hook, ch 9.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn – 8 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in back lp only of each sc across, turn.
Rep Row 2 until piece meas 12 (13, 14, 15, 16)”. Do not fasten off.
Back
Change to larger hook and work across long side of ribbing as follows:
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts evenly across, turn.
Work even in hdc until piece meas 14 (16, 17, 18, 20)” from beginning. Fasten off.
Front Ribbing
Work same as Back Ribbing.
Front
Change to larger hook and work across long side of ribbing as follows:
Foundation Row: Ch 2, hdc 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) sts evenly across, turn.
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, fpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, fpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, fpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts.
Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, sk first 3 dc, fpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in first 3 skipped sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, sk first 3 dc, fpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in first 3 skipped sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, sk first 3 dc, fpdc in next 3 sts, fpdc in first 3 skipped sts, hdc in next 6 sts.
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts.
Row 5: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, fpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, fpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, fpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts.
Row 6: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, bpdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts.
Rep Rows 1-6, working cables over 6 sts as established, until piece meas 9 (10, 10, 11, 12)” from beginning.
Neckline Shaping
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, work cable over 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked – 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 (6, 7, 8, 9) sts, work cable over 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, work cable over 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, turn.
Rows 4-9: Rep Rows 2-3.
Row 10 (Dec): Sl st in first 3 sts, ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) sts, work cable over 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, turn – 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts.
Size 24 Only
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn – 13 sts.
Row 12: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc to end, turn – 12 sts.
Row 13: Rep Row 11 – 11 sts.
Row 14: Rep Row 12 – 10 sts.
Row 15: Rep Row 11 – 9 sts.
Sizes 26 (28, 30, 32) Only
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, work cable over 6 sts, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn – 14 (15, 16, 17) sts.
Row 12: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to cable, work cable over 6 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, turn – 13 (14, 15, 16) sts.
Row 13: Ch 2, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn – 12 (13, 14, 15) sts.
Row 14: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc to end, turn – 11 (12, 13, 14) sts.
Row 15: Rep Row 13 – 10 (11, 12, 13) sts.
Row 16: Rep Row 14 – 9 (10, 11, 12) sts.
Size 26 Only
Rows 17-18: Work even in hdc.
Fasten off.
Size 28 Only
Row 17: Rep Row 13 – 9 sts.
Row 18: Work even in hdc.
Fasten off.
Sizes 30 (32) Only
Row 17: Rep Row 13 – 10 (11) sts.
Row 18: Rep Row 14 – 9 (10) sts.
Fasten off.
Join yarn at opposite edge and repeat neck shaping.
Sleeve
Sleeve Ribbing
Work same as Back Ribbing until piece meas 7 (7, 7, 8, 8)” from beginning.
Sleeve
Change to larger hook and work across long side of ribbing as follows:
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) sts evenly across, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, work even in hdc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc to last st, 2 hdc in last st – 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) sts.
Rows 4-5: Ch 2, work even in hdc, turn.
Row 6: Rep Row 3 – 26 (26, 26, 28, 28) sts.
Rows 7-9: Rep Rows 4-6 – 28 (28, 28, 30, 30) sts.
Rows 10-12: Rep Rows 4-6 – 30 (30, 30, 32, 32) sts.
Rows 13-15: Rep Rows 4-6 – 32 (32, 32, 34, 34) sts.
Rows 16-18: Rep Rows 4-6 – 34 (34, 34, 36, 36) sts.
Rows 19-21: Rep Rows 4-6 – 36 (36, 36, 38, 38) sts.
Sizes 28 (30, 32) Only
Rep Rows 4-6, 1 (1, 2) times more – 38 (40, 42) sts.
All Sizes
Work even in hdc for 1 (4, 4, 6, 6) row(s).
Fasten off.
Hood
With larger hook, ch 61 (67, 71, 75, 81).
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across – 60 (66, 70, 74, 80) sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog – 58 (64, 68, 72, 78) sts.
Rows 3-16: Rep Row 2 – 30 (36, 40, 44, 50) sts remaining.
Size 24 Only
Fasten off.
Size 26 (28, 30, 32) Only
Rep Row 2, 2 (4, 6, 6) times more – 32 (32, 32, 38) sts.
Fasten off.
Finishing
Sew shoulder seams.
Sew back seam of hood.
Sew slanted edge of hood to neck edge.
Hood Edging
With smaller hook, join yarn with sl st at bottom left of placket.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in corner, sc across 6 sts, sc2tog in last unworked st and side of right placket edge, turn – 8 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc back lp only in each st across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc back lp only in first 7 sts, sc2tog in last st and side of right placket edge, turn.
Rep Rows 2-3 around right placket and hood until you reach the bottom of the left edge of hood.
Place buttons on right placket evenly.
Work buttonholes opposite each button as follows:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc back lp only in first 3 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc back lp only in last 3 sts, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc across first 3 sc, sc in next 2 ch, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog last unworked st and one st from placket edge.
Cont edging until you reach bottom of right placket. Fasten off.
Sew left placket over right placket, matching buttons and buttonholes. Sew first 2 rows of open edge of right placket in place.
Sew sleeves and side seams.
Weave in ends.
Well, that’s it! I hope you’ve enjoyed this free crochet pattern! Be sure to check out my free pattern library for more!
Happy Crocheting!
Amanda
Hello awesome lady!
Absolutely love this pattern and your little boy with his pretty blue eyes looks to cute! Im busy crocheting one for my almost 5 year old boy. Just want to confirm the size hook for hood. I assume its 6mm cause the edging is with the smaller hook…
Thanks for sharing this gorgeous hoodie pattern!
Yes! Sorry about that 🙂 Use the larger hook for the body of the hood and the smaller hook for the ribbing. I will go back and change that.
Awesome! Thank you!!!
Under the instructions for the back …
It says to:
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts evenly across, turn.
Work even in hdc until piece meas 14 (16, 17, 18, 20) sts from beginning. Fasten off.
The work even part should be creating length, so not quite sure what the above means when it says , “until piece meas 14(16, 17 etc …) ****STS**** from beginning.
Did you perhaps mean rows, or inches instead of “STS”?
Thanks for any insight you might have
Elaine
Hi Elaine! It should read to work even until that many inches. So sorry about that! 🙂
Do you have pics of unfinished pieces and how they should look? Im confused on how to put it together My back piece is alot shorter than front
Hi Mindy!
I don’t have photos of the unfinished pieces, but the back and front should measure the same. They should both be 14 (16, 17, 18, 20)” from the hem to the shoulder.
Do you do the neck edging on both front amd back?
I’m not sure what you mean by neck edging – the ribbing that goes around the hood? This starts at the front neckline, goes around the hood, and comes down the other side of the neckline.
I’m in love with this pattern! Can it be made for a baby girl as well?
Absolutely!! You can make it any color and use whatever buttons you like and it could be for either a boy or girl. 🙂
okay – I have everything done and together except the button holes. And I am very, very confused by them. How exactly do you make them in a back loop of the ribbing when all you have is the front loops, the back loops being what you stitched in when making the ribbing in the first place? Can you elaborate? Or show closer pictures of what that part looks like?
Hi Amanda! When working your buttonholes, it’s really the same as the rest of the ribbing except you are chaining and leaving a couple of sts unworked so that the button can fit through. You will turn to do the next row, work the first 3 sts the same way as the rest of the ribbing, ch 2, skip 2 sts, work the last 3 the same as the rest of the ribbing. Let me know if this doesn’t clear it up. 🙂
Can you please make this in a adult size please????,
Antonette
Thanks Antonette! I will be working on that soon – I’ve had a lot of requests for it. 🙂
I just found this pattern and love it, mostly because it is simple. I do have one question though. You mentioned that the cable is worked over 6 stitches and then you list Row 1. Where is the cable started of does that mean something I am missing.
Hi Caryn! The cables are worked on the front. This just lets you know how to work the cable over these rows. It is also spelled out in the instructions for the front, so you should just work the front as written. 🙂
Hi I have another question about this pattern. I think I missed it but I couldn’t find where the initial starting chain is for the sweater. Could you tell me where that information is found in your pattern.
For this pattern the ribbing is worked first and then you crochet along the long edge of it. There is no initial large starting chain. 🙂
Couple questions, please.
All the pieces are worked separately? Sleeves, back, front, hood and sewn together? There is no information on sewing up the sides and how many stitches to leave for the sleeves.
I love the look of this little sweater but before I start sorting out counts to do it in less pieces, I wanted to ask- it seems like a bunch of extra work to do all different pieces and join. – Have you done the pattern in a round ( front and back at the same time until sleeve holes/neck front? And where the hood is worked from the top of the sweater not separately? And sleeves worked from shoulder down?
Hi Melissa,
Yes, I designed this as separate pieces. The last step before weaving in ends says to sew sleeve and side seams. If you want to alter it to make it in less pieces I’m sure it can be done. 🙂
Hello this is a wonderful pattern. I have one question on the neck pattern. On the second row, is states hdc for 6 stitches, work cable over the next six stitches and hdc in the next 6(6,7,8,9). I am making the size 4 shouldn’t that read based on the previous front pattern. 6(7,8,9,10). To match the existing pattern? Because on row 3 it goes back to the original pattern format.
Thanks Mary! Looks like I do have an error there, but it’s the first number 6. You count the ch-2 as a stitch, so you would skip the first stitch and work the rest of the sts in hdc. The first number should be a 5. If you don’t count a ch-2 as a hdc, you can feel free to hdc 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) instead. 🙂
I just wanted to double check if the measurements for the front and back panels include the ribbing ? 14, 16, 17, 18, 20 inches from the bottom of the ribbing at the hem to the top of the shoulder.
Yes, those measurements include the ribbing. 🙂
Thank you for this pattern..I’ve done all the pieces but I’m now confused as I’m following the instruction to fo the placket and sc around the hood.. I’ve done the button hole etc.. but I’m left with 1 button hole only and 2 rows of sc as edging around the hood. I don’t see instructions on how to do the ribbing around the hood. There is only instructions to do sc from right placket and around down to left placket and visa versa.. Have I missed something.. ? Thank you sooooo much for your help!
You work the ribbing across the unworked sts in between the plackets, then continue up the side of the placket, all the way around the hood, and down the other side of the hood. The buttonholes should be worked opposite of your button placement. It is similar to how the ribbing is worked in this video.
Brilliant! Thank you so much! I understand now. 😃
Awesome! The biggest problem I see with this method is putting too many rows of ribbing, so if it starts flaring out, you will know there are too many rows and you need to work them farther apart.
Boy I wish I would have seen this. My hood is definitely flared. 😩😩😩
I also think I put the buttons on the wrong side of the thingy. All of this hard work and I messed it up 😩
Thank you so much Amanda! I’ll keep an eye out for that, thanks for the tip. The video link you sent helps heaps also. I’m going to finish the jersey off today. Its for my 4 Yr old son..my first crochet jersey for him. I’m so excited to see him in it. Thanks again 😃 xx
Hi, help please,
I dont understand the following:
Hood Edging: working at bottom left of placket.
and is there a ribbing going around the hood?
there isn’t anything indicating such in the pattern
Yes, you start at the placket and go up the edge, then around the hood and then down the other side of the placket. If you look further down it says to repeat rows 2-3 around hood.
I do not understand the neck edging. I am making the size 2 and the numbers do not correspond with the number of stitches I have on my piece(42) and on the neck edging instructions it says I should have 18 stitches remaining and I have 21. I am assuming the row is divided in half. PLEASE HELP
Are you referring to this row?
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 sts, work cable over 6 sts, hdc in next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked – 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) sts.
If so, you leave the rest of the stitches unworked, like it says. You will join on the opposite side to work the other half. This leaves a space open to work the placket (the ribbed part that also goes around the hood).
Yes I understand that but I have 21 stitches not 18 because I have 42 stitches on my work as the pattern says, and this says I have 18 stitches left I worked which is a total of 36 not 42
Hi there! I love this sweater so much!! I’m trying to make it for my 9 year old son and, though I think I figured out the cabling, (is row 4 supposed to be like row 3 with the skipped stitches first? I followed the instructions first and it didn’t quite look right, but when I changed it to the skipping 3, I think it worked?)
I am also having issues with the yarn – I cannot find the wool you recommend or anything on the google substitute areas. I found a 6 weight yarn, and have done the front and the back, but I’m wondering if I should start over with something “better” as this kind of seems stiff or something. Is this normal?
Thank you for any guidance you can give and sorry if my questions are weird!
Hi Colleen! The yarn used here is a worsted weight yarn, category 4, so if you are using a suze 6 super bulky it won’t work out right. Yes, skip 3 stitches for the cables. 🙂
Thank you so much! I went pretty deep into the project with the 6 and it’s basically so thick it can stand up! I grabbed some 4 to try it with last night and I’m working on the back now! I have no idea about gauge and making actual items, but I really hope I can do your beautiful pattern justice!! Those cables were tricky with the thick yarn, but oh so satisfying once they started to come together!!