Free Patterns

Baby Butterfly Costume – Free Crochet Pattern

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September 5, 2019 By amanda Leave a Comment

Who doesn’t love a baby in a handmade costume?? I designed this Baby Butterfly Costume for The Hook Nook Life blog, and now I’m so excited to be able to share it here with you!

This outfit shares the same onesie and hat base as the Baby Bat Costume that I released last year, and now I’m really wanting to create more baby costumes. If you’re a knitter as well, you might be interested in the Baby Kitty Costume. Babies are just SO cute in these!

This little model is my youngest son’s best friend (if you are new here – hi! – I have four little boys under age 10 so no girls to model for me!). She and my guy love hanging out and we had a blast getting these pictures. He is off running around in the background and I was trying to get shots without him in them!

You will need to do some seaming for this costume, as well as sew in some snap tape (you can get it at any local craft store, usually near the elastic and they sell it by the yard). It’s not hard, though!

The front and back are crocheted flat, then seamed at the sides and the snap tape goes in the crotch and shoulders. You could also do buttons if you don’t want to do snap tape.

Want more help constructing this onesie? You can purchase an ad-free pdf of this pattern with more pictures for just $2.99 here!

What You’ll Need

Yarn: Lion Brand Feels Like Butta (100% polyester, 3.5oz/100g, 218 yd/199m): Charcoal (MC) 2 (3) skeins, 1 skein each Lilac (CC1), White (CC2)

Hook: US size H/8 (5.0 mm); US size I/9 (5.5 mm)

Notions: Yarn needle; stitch markers; ¼ yard of black snap tape

Skill Level

Intermediate

Sizes

Onesie: 6 (12) months, 17 (18)” chest; Hat: Baby (Toddler), 14 (16)” head circumference

Shown in size 12 months‍

Gauge

16 sts and 20 rows = 4” [10 cm] in sc with larger hook

Notes‍

Rounds are not joined unless noted. Place stitch marker in first st of each round to keep track. If only one number is given that number applies to both sizes.

Ch 3 at beginning of a row does not count as a dc.

Onesie

Back

With larger hook, ch 13 (17).

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch and each ch across, turn – 12 (16) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 3 (Inc Row): Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn – 14 (18) sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Rows 5-6: Rep Rows 3-4 – 16 (20) sts.

Rows 7-8: Rep Rows 3-4 – 18 (22) sts.

Rows 9-10: Rep Rows 3-4 – 20 (24) sts.

Rows 11-12: Rep Rows 3-4 – 22 (26) sts.

Rows 13-14: Rep Rows 3-4 – 24 (28) sts.

Rows 15-16: Rep Rows 3-4 – 26 (30) sts.

Rows 17-18: Rep Rows 3-4 – 28 (32) sts.

Rows 19-20: Rep Rows 3-4 – 30 (34) sts.

Row 21: Rep Row 3 – 32 (36) sts.

Work even in sc for 40 (45) rows.

Armhole Shaping

Row 1: Sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in each st to last 2 sts, leave rem sts unworked, turn – 28 (32) sts.

Rows 2-11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in first 7 (9) sts, leave rem sts unworked, turn – 7 (9) sts.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to end, turn – 6 (8) sts.

Row 14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 15: Rep Row 13 – 5 (7) sts.

Work even in sc for 3 (5) rows.

Want more help constructing this onesie? You can purchase an ad-free pdf of this pattern with more pictures for just $2.99 here!

Ribbing

Change to smaller hook, ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc2tog last ch and first st of last row, turn – 3 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in first 2 sts, sc2tog blo last st and 2nd st of last row, turn.

Rep Rows 2-3 across 5 (7) sts of Shoulder.

Fasten off.

Join yarn at opposite side and repeat from Armhole Row 12.

Front

With larger hook, ch 11 (15).

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn – 10 (14) sts.

Row 2: Work 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn – 12 (16) sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Rows 4-5: Rep Rows 2-3 – 14 (18) sts.

Rows 6-7: Rep Rows 2-3 – 16 (20) sts.

Rows 8-9: Rep Rows 2-3 – 18 (22) sts.

Rows 10-11: Rep Rows 2-3 – 20 (24) sts.

Rows 12-13: Rep Rows 2-3 – 22 (26) sts.

Row 14: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across – 27 (31) sts.

Row 15: Rep Row 14 – 32 (36) sts.

Work even in sc for 40 (45) rows.

Armhole Shaping

Work same as Back to Ribbing. Fasten off.

Neckline

With smaller hook, join yarn at neck edge, ch 3.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc2tog last ch and first st of last row – 2 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in first st, sc2tog blo last st and 2nd st of last row, turn.

Rep Rows 2-3 around neck edge, working from one shoulder to another.

Fasten off.

Sew side seams.

Sew snap tape to Shoulder seams, overlapping ribbing. Tack Armhole edges. Sew snap tape to bottom of Front and Back, using photos as a guide. Snap tape should be on the RS of front and WS of back.

Sleeves

With larger hook, join yarn at underarm seam.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc 32 (34) sts evenly around, turn – 32 (34) sts.

Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, turn.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog – 30 (32) sts.

Rnds 5-6: Ch 1, sc in each st around, turn.

Rnds 7-9: Rep Rnds 4-6 – 28 (30) sts.

Rnds 10-12: Rep Rnds 4-6 – 26 (28) sts.

Rnds 13-15: Rep Rnds 4-6 – 24 (26) sts.

Rnds 16-18: Rep Rnds 4-6 – 22 (24) sts.

Rnds 19-20: Ch 1, sc in each st around, turn.

Rnd 21: Rep Rnd 4 – 20 (22) sts.

Work even in sc for 14 (18) rnds, turning at each end.

Ribbing

Change to smaller hook, ch 3.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc2tog last ch and first st of last rnd – 2 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in first st, sc2tog blo last st and 2nd st of last rnd, turn.

Rep Rows 2-3 around Sleeve edge.

Fasten off.

‍

Wing (Make 2)

With larger hook and MC, ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across; turn – 3 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc, 2 sc in last st; turn – 5 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc 3, 2 sc in last st; turn – 7 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc MC in first st, (sc CC, sc MC) three times; turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc MC, (2 CC1 sc in next st, sc MC) three times; turn – 10 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, work even in colors as established; turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc MC in first st, sc 2 CC1, (sc MC, sc 2 CC1) twice, 2 MC sc in last st; turn – 12 sts.

Row 8: Ch 1, sc 2 MC, (sc 2 CC1, sc 2 MC in next st) twice, sc 2 CC1, sc 2 MC; turn – 14 sts.

Row 9: Ch 1, sc 2 MC (sc 2 CC1 in next st, sc CC1, sc 2 MC) three times; turn – 17 sts.

Row 10: Ch 1, work even in colors as established; turn.

Row 11: Ch 1, sc 2 MC in first st, work in colors as established to last st, sc 2 MC in last st; turn – 19 sts.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc 3 MC, (sc 3 CC1, sc 2 MC in next st, sc MC) twice, sc 3 CC1, sc 3 MC; turn – 21 sts.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc 3 MC, (sc 2 CC1 in next st, sc 2 CC1, sc 3 MC) three times; turn – 24 sts.

Row 14: Ch 1, work even in colors as established; turn.

Row 15: Repeat row 11 – 26 sts.

Row 16: Ch 1, sc 4 MC, (sc 4 CC1, sc 2 MC in next st, sc 2 MC) twice, sc 4 CC1, sc 4 MC; turn – 28 sts.

Row 17: Ch 1, sc 4 MC, (sc 2 CC1 in next st, sc 3 CC1, sc 4 MC) three times; turn – 31 sts.

Row 18: Ch 1, work even in colors as established; turn.

Row 19: Ch 1, sc 4 MC, (sc 2 CC1 in next st, sc 4 CC1, sc 4 MC) three times; turn – 34 sts.

Row 20: Ch 1, work even in colors as established; turn.

Row 21: Ch 1, sc 4 MC, (sc 5 CC1, sc 2 CC1 in next st, sc 4 MC) three times; turn – 37 sts.

Row 22: Ch 1, work even in colors as established; turn.

Row 23: Ch 1, sc 4 MC, (sc 2 CC1 in next st, sc 6 CC1, sc 4 MC) three times; turn – 40 sts.

Row 24: Ch 1, work even in colors as established; turn.

Row 25: Ch 1, sc 4 MC, (sc 7 CC1, sc 2 CC1 in next st, sc 4 MC) three times; turn – 43 sts.

Row 26: Ch 1, work even in colors as established; turn.

Row 27: Ch 1, sc 2 MC in first st, sc 4 MC, (sc 7 CC1, 6 MC) twice, 7 CC1, 4 MC, sc 2 MC in last st – 45 sts.

Row 28: Ch 1, sc 7 MC, (sc 5 CC1, sc 8 MC) twice, sc 5 CC1, sc 7 MC; turn. Cut CC1.

Row 29: Ch 1, 2 sc MC in first st, sc MC to last st, 2 sc MC in last st – 47 sts.

Row 30: Ch 1, sc even in MC; turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, sc 2 MC in first st, sc 8 MC, (sc 3 CC2, sc 10 MC) twice, sc 3 CC2, sc 8 MC, sc 2 MC in last st; turn – 49 sts.

Row 32: Ch 1, sc 9 MC, (sc 5 CC2, sc 8 MC) twice, sc 5 CC2, sc 9 MC; turn.

Row 33: Ch 1, sc 2 MC in first st, sc 8 MC, (sc 5 CC2, sc 8 MC) twice, sc 5 CC2, sc 8 MC, sc 2 MC in last st; turn – 51 sts.

Row 34: Ch 1, sc 11 MC, (sc 3 CC2, sc 10 MC) twice, sc 3 CC2, sc 11 MC; turn.

Row 35: With MC, ch 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 6, tr 5, dc 2, hdc, sc, sl st in next st, sc, hdc, dc, tr 5, dc, hdc, sc, sl st in next st, sc, hdc, dc 2, tr 5, dc 6, hdc 2, sc 2.

Fasten off.

Sew wings to underarms and side of body as shown.

‍

Leg Edging

Join yarn at left side seam of Leg opening.

Sc evenly around, working 3 sc in corners. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

Hat

With larger hook, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in magic ring, pull tight to close, join with sl st to first sc – 6 sts.

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – 12 sts.

Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 18 sts.

Rnd 4: *Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 24 sts.

Rnd 5: *Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 30 sts.

Rnd 6: *Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 36 sts.

Rnd 7: *Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 42 sts.

Rnd 8: *Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 48 sts.

Rnd 9: *Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 54 sts.

Rnd 10: *Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 60 sts.

Size Toddler Only

Rnd 11: *Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – 66 sts.

All Sizes

Work 15 (18) rnds even – 60 (66) sts.

Ribbing

Change to smaller hook, ch 5.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch, sc2tog last ch and first st of last rnd, turn – 4 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc blo in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc blo in first 3 sts, sc2tog blo last st and 2nd st of last rnd, turn.

Rep Rows 2-3 around.

Fasten off.

Antennae

With RS facing and MC, join yarn to hat where you want the antennae.

Ch 5. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 ch, sc2tog last ch and same st as join. (4 sts)

Fasten off.

Antennae Top

Ch 4.

Rnd 1: 9 dc in 4th ch from hook, join with sl st in t-ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Weave the tail through the tops of the 9 dc and top of t-ch. Pull tight to form a ball.

To make top of antennae, sew gathered spot to top of stem.

Repeat on opposite side for second antennae.

Weave in ends.

‍

Want more help constructing this onesie? You can purchase an ad-free pdf of this pattern with more pictures for just $2.99 here!

I hope you have enjoyed this free crochet pattern! I can’t wait to see little baby butterflies very soon. 🙂

Happy Crocheting!
Amanda

Mini Weaving Loom Fall Pumpkins

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August 30, 2019 By amanda Leave a Comment

This post is sponsored by Clover USA. All opinions are my own.

When Clover approached me with the idea of using the Mini Weaving Loom in a project, I was intrigued. I’ve taught fashion design at the high school level for several years and we always do a small weaving project.

The challenge was thinking outside the box and not making the same things I’d seen before: wall hangings, coasters, simple scarves made with several strips. What could I make that was different?

It took some time of thinking it over to decide on a fall-themed project that most people love: pumpkins! If you can make a pumpkin from a rectangle of purchased fabric, why couldn’t you make one from a rectangle of fabric you wove yourself?

Turns out, it works out perfectly!! I really love how these turned out and we enjoyed experimenting with different yarns. I say we because three different people wove pumpkins in my house: myself, my husband, and Christian (my 9-year-old son who does the Yarn Crafts for Kids videos on my YouTube channel).

Our last yarn we tried was the Bernat Velvet and it made my favorite pumpkin – so much so that we ended up making another velvet pumpkin to match the first! See all the wonderful colors it comes in here!

Top these off with an inexpensive cinnamon stick and you have a perfect fall project that you can create yourself – even if you can’t knit or crochet! The Clover Mini Weaving Loom is so easy to use that kiddos can use it to make these, too!

Mini Weaving Loom Fall Pumpkins

What You’ll Need

Yarn: Any bulky or super bulky yarn. We used Red Heart Soft Essentials for the black and white pumpkin, Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick for the gray pumpkin, and Bernat Velvet for the Velvet Pumpkins

Loom: Clover Mini Weaving Loom (Double) – Make sure you use the double loom, or you will end up with a square instead of a rectangle!

Notions: Yarn Needle, Fiberfill for stuffing, hot glue gun and sticks, cinnamon sticks (check out these inexpensive ones)
(Optional – throw some fall spices in with the fiberfill for extra yumminess!)

How to Use the Loom

**Please use the video tutorial above if you have any questions about these steps.

Step One: Set up the warp
Tie a knot at the bottom right corner of the loom. With the yarn secured with a knot to the loom, pull the yarn from the back of the loom to the lower groove and wind it up to the upper groove following the direction of the arrows. To finish, secure the yarn with a knot on the back of the loom at the top left.

Step Two: Wind the weft
Hold the end of the yarn and wind the yarn in a figure eight-motion so that the amount of yarn on the right and left sides are the same. At the end, wind the yarn around the center, too. Total thickness should not exceed 3/4″.

Step Three: Set up the shed stick
Pass the shed stick through the even numbered strands of the warp yarn. This will help pass the shuttle back through the loom.

Step Four: Begin Weaving
With the shuttle, scoop the odd-numbered strands of warp yarn and pass it through them. Be sure to leave a long tail for gathering the bottom of the pumpkin.

When making the first row, create an arch shape and use the weaving comb to pull the weft yarn towards you to the bottom of the loom.

Turn the shed stick upright to separate the even numbered strands of the warp yarn. Pass the shuttle through the shed of the warp.

After each pass, use the weaving comb to pull the weft yarn towards you to the bottom of the loom.

Step Five: Remove shed stick when it gets difficult to pass the shuttle through
Still use the shuttle for weaving, but remove the shed stick when it gets in the way.

Step Six: Use the needle for the last rows
When it becomes difficult to pass the shuttle through because you are close to the top, unwind the yarn from the shuttle, thread the needle that comes with the loom, and continue weaving with the needle.

Step Seven: Remove the woven piece from the loom
You can do this by removing the spacing bars, or you can do what I like to do and pull off each loop when making the last row.

Step Eight: Even out the yarns
Use the comb to even out your weave.

Step Nine: Sew the side edges together
Use the mattress stitch to sew the side edges together, creating an enclosed tube of fabric.

Step Ten: Gather and stuff
Use the yarn tail left from the beginning or end of the weave and pull tightly to close. Use the yarn needle to secure the end. Stuff tightly with fiberfill. Put in spices if using. Gather top the same way as bottom.

Step Ten: Attach the stem
Use a hot glue gun to attach a small piece of cinnamon stick to the top of the pumpkin. Use whichever side you like best for the top.

These work so wonderfully for place settings and decorations around the house! I love how they all turned out and I plan on making more of these (or having Christian make some! haha) so we can be ready for fall!

Be sure to check out all of my free crochet patterns and free knitting patterns. More weaving and other yarn craft items coming soon!

I hope you enjoy this free weaving project – if you want to save this project for later, be sure to click on the image below to pin it!

Cumulus Slouch – Free Crochet Pattern

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August 30, 2019 By amanda 7 Comments

You know fall is coming when the beanie patterns start coming out in earnest. I enjoy the summer (especially since I’m a teacher and have summer off!), but I really love fall. I created the Cumulus Slouch to wear in the cooler months.

We went on vacation in March of this year to Gatlinburg, TN – one of our favorite family destinations. While we were there we visited the Smoky Mountain Spinnery (my new favorite thing is to visit a LYS in the area when we are on vacation and pick up a yarn to create something I can wear to remember the trip!).

I fell in love with this Cumulus Dappled from Juniper Moon Farms. It’s 100% Israeli Cotton and it is heavenly. I picked up a skein each of two colorways and wish they had more in this color because I would have bought it all!

I decided to create a slouchy hat since the skein had generous yardage and I wanted to show of the color changes. I made this hat and a cabled headband from a single skein!

Check out all my free crochet patterns here!

What You’ll Need

Yarn: Juniper Moon Farms Cumulus Dappled, 1 skein

Hooks: H (5.0mm) and I (5.5mm)

Notions: Yarn needle, Scissors

Gauge: 14 sts and 9 rows = 4″ in silt stitch

Finished Size: Approximately 20.5″ circumference

Pattern Notes: Ch-2 at beginning of row counts as hdc
Ch-3 at beginning of row counts as dc unless indicated

Pattern

Ribbing

With smaller hook, ch 9.

Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across – 8 sts.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc blo in each st; turn.

Repeat row 2 until piece measures 20.5″ from beginning.

Body

Change to larger hook. Turn ribbing to long side and continue as follows:

Round 1: Ch 3, dc 71 sts evenly around ribbing, join with slip st to beginning ch-3 – 72 sts.

Round 2: Ch 1, (sc, 2 dc) in same space as join, *skip 2 sts, (sc, 2 dc) in next st; repeat from * to last 2 sts, skip last 2 sts, join with slip st to first sc.

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in each st; join with slip st to beginning ch-3.

Rounds 4-17: Repeat rows 2-3.

Decrease

Round 1: Ch 1, *(sc, 2 dc) in next st, skip 2 sts, (sc, dc) in next st, skip 2 sts; repeat from * to last 2 sts, join with slip st to first sc – 60 sts.

Round 2: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc 2, *dc, dc2tog, dc 2; repeat from * to end; join with slip st to beginning ch-3 – 48 sts.

Round 3: Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first st, skip 2 sts, dc, skip 2 sts, *(sc, dc) in next st, skip 2 sts, dc, skip 2 sts; repeat from * around; join with slip st to first sc – 36 sts.

Round 4: Ch 3, *dc2tog, dc; repeat from * around; join with slip st to beginning ch-3 – 16 sts.

Round 5: Ch 3 (does NOT count as dc), dc2tog same space and next st, *dc2tog; repeat from * around; join with slip st to beginning ch-3 – 8 sts.

Finishing

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Weave tail through remaining 8 sts and pull tightly to close.

Sew seam in ribbing.

Weave in ends.

How to Crochet a Fire Truck Backpack – Free Crochet Pattern

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August 20, 2019 By amanda Leave a Comment

After making the Unicorn Backpack a while ago for a friend, the boys have really been wanting me to design some backpacks that they would like. (Not that boys can’t like unicorns, but mine don’t!) So, I decided to create a tutorial for how to crochet a fire truck backpack. I love the way it turned out!

My boys are into vehicles and always have been. Only the youngest is showing signs of being an animal lover like me. They have all gone through spells where they like one type of vehicle more than another, but fire trucks have always been a favorite around here.

When I decided to join the E’Claire Makery Back to School Blog Hop, I knew I needed a fun backpack design and almost made another animal pack, but I decided to go with something my boys would love (and now they are fighting over it!).

There is absolutely NO shaping to this bag, so if you can single crochet a basic rectangle, you can make this backpack! I will show you step by step how to crochet a fire truck backpack. I even made a video tutorial to walk you through it. 🙂

FIRE TRUCK BACKPACK

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Yarn: Red Heart Baby Hugs Medium (MC), 2 skeins Ladybug, 1 skein each Ink (CC1) and Frosting (CC2)

Hooks: US size M (9.00mm) for the backpack and size H (5.5mm) for the window and straps

Notions: Two 1 1/2″ black buttons, two 1 1/8″ white buttons, yarn needle, scissors

Skill Level: Easy (this project is very beginner-friendly, see text above for skills needed)

Finished Measurements: Approximately 13 x 11 1/2 inches

Gauge: 14 sts and 13 rows = 4 1/2″/10cm in pattern st.

Notes: Hold two strands MC together for front, back and strap construction

PATTERN

BACK

With larger hook, ch 41. Sc in 2^nd ch from hook and each ch across – 40 sts.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * to last two sts, sc in last two sts.

Row 1: Ch 1. Sc in first sc, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * to last two sts, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in last sc.

Rows 3-57: Repeat row 2.

Fasten off.

FRONT

Work same as back to row 37, working the first 22 rows in CC1 and rows 23-37 in MC.

Fasten off.

STRAPS (Make 2)

With larger hook and CC1, ch 5.

Sc in 2^nd ch from hook and each ch across – 4 sts.

Work 14 rows in CC1, then change to MC and work 38 rows.

Fasten off.

HANDLE

With smaller hook and one strand MC, ch 5.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across – 4 sts.

Rows 2-3: Work even in sc.

Change to CC2.

Row 4: Work even in sc.

Change to CC1

Rows 5-18: Work even in sc.

Change to CC2.

Row 18: Work even in sc.

Change to MC.

Rows 19-21: Work even in sc.

WINDOW

With smaller hook and one strand CC2, ch 15.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across – 14 sts.

Rows 2-11: Work even in sc.

Fasten off.

FINISHING

Slip st front and back together.

Sew straps on 5 sts in from outer edge.

Sew window to front.

Use surface slip st to make ladder and lines on road.

Attach hanger an equal distance from center.

Sew buttons on front.

Button Loops

Join MC at edge of button.

Ch 8. Join with sl st in 4th st away from starting st.

(Be sure to check out the video if you have any problems!)

That’s it!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this free crochet pattern showing how to crochet a fire truck backpack. It was SO much fun designing this pattern! Be sure to check out all the free crochet patterns!

Happy Crocheting!
Amanda

Lilac Meadows Baby Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

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August 16, 2019 By amanda 2 Comments

Do you ever go on a crochet binge and just keep making a lot of the same type of project over and over? I do that a lot and lately my binge has been baby blankets! I hope you enjoy blankets, because the Lilac Meadows Baby Blanket is one of my favorites.

There is something so sweet about crochet baby blankets. I love the way they feel and the Lion Brand Yarn Feels Like Butta is amazing for baby makes! I’ve made a couple of baby sweaters, hats and mittens with it and it is a wonderful yarn for babies.

The colors of Feels Like Butta are so wonderful for babies, too. I chose this Lilac and White combo and am so happy with how it has turned out. I’m already planning another blanket with this yarn (although different colors and stitch!).

What about you? Do you love baby blankets or find them boring? I’ve talked to people in both camps. I used to be in the “boring” camp but now I love them because I can take him in the car when I’m riding or watch Netflix and have a project that is so easy to put down and pick back up.

I always have multiple projects going, anyways, so it’s nice to have one that is relaxing and easy with no shaping or complicated row and stitch counts.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern for the Lilac Meadows Baby Blanket!

Want more free crochet baby blanket patterns? View all of my free patterns here!

Lilac Meadows Baby Blanket

What You’ll Need

Yarn: Lion Brand Feels Like Butta, 1 skein each Lilac and White (9.7 oz Bonus Bundle Skeins from Michael’s) or 3 skeins each of the 3.5 oz size *See all the colors of this yarn here!

Hook: Size J (6.0mm)

Notions: Yarn needle, scissors

Gauge: 16 sts and 12 rows = 4″ in stitch pattern

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: Approximately 24″ x 32″

Notes

The Sedge Stitch is always worked into the single crochet.

The ch-1 at the beginning of a row counts as a single crochet, you will always work your last sc into this ch-1.

Stripe Pattern

20 rows MC
4 rows CC
20 rows MC
4 rows CC
20 rows MC
4 rows CC
20 rows MC

Pattern

With MC, ch 93 (or any multiple of 3 if you would like to make it larger or smaller).

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, dc into same ch, *skip next 2 ch, (sc, hdc, dc) into next ch; repeat from * to end, sc in last ch; turn.

Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as sc), (hdc, dc) into first sc, *skip next hdc and dc, (sc, hdc, dc) into next sc; repeat from * to end, sc in last st; turn.

Rows 3-92: Repeat row 2, changing colors as indicated in stripe pattern.

Border

Change to CC.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around blanket edge, working (sc, ch 1, sc) in each corner, join to first sc with slip st; do not turn.

Change to MC.

Round 2: Repeat round 1, working (sc, ch 1, sc) in each ch-1 corner space, join to first sc with slip st; turn.

Change to CC.

Round 3: Slip st into ch-1 space of corner, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, *skip next sc, sc in next st, skip next sc, 5 dc in next sc; repeat from * around, working ch 5 shell in each corner. End 2 dc in same ch-1 space as beginning, join with slip st to ch-3; do not turn.

Change to MC.

Round 4: Ch 3, skip next dc, sc in next dc, *ch 3, skip sc, sc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, sc in next dc; repeat from * around, making sure you are working into the first, third, and fifth dc of each shell with a ch-3 in between. Join to first st with slip st.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

That’s it! This blanket turned out so well and the sedge stitch was just perfect for this yarn. I hope you will give it a try!

Happy Crocheting!
Amanda